Chatham Islands, New Zealand

TUESDAYS WITH BARRY

For something a little different, yet vaguely familiar, my Dad and I decided to take a short trip to New Zealand's eastern outpost, the remote Chatham Islands with a population of barely 600. The Chatham's have officially been part of New Zealand since 1842 and include the country's eastern most point, the beautifully named Forty-Fours, but if you ask any Chatham Islander they'll tell you this isn't New Zealand. And to make the point, this is the only place on earth to observe Chatham Standard Time Zone -  confusingly forty-five minutes ahead of New Zealand.

Flights to the islands on Air Chathams (in a Convair 580) depart from Auckland, Christchurch or in our case Wellington. The scarcity of flights mean passengers and freight share the main cabin. The first 15 or so rows of our flight were taken up with all sorts of household goods covered in blue plastic wrap. After a brief delay the flight took off and about an hour and a half later we landed at remote Tuuta airport next to a large lagoon far away from any sign of civilization. There's no public transport on the island so it's essential to have accommodation booked in advance. Dad arranged a rental car at the airport - an old Honda CRV with the keys permanently stuck in the ignition. We found the proprietor of the Hotel Chathams, who also doubled as the rental car agent, and followed her, via a quick stop to take in the views or Petre Bay, to the Chatham Rise annex, a few hundred meters from the main hotel in the capital city, Waitangi (population 200).

Petre Bay looking towards Waitangi

Hotel Chatham is pretty much the only game in town. The only pub, the only restaurant, the only hotel, the Air Chathams air hostess doubles as the bartender and the fish and chips is a bargain at $25 a plate.  After dinner we took a drive along Port Hutt Road to the tiny village of Port Hutt, stopping at the Basalt Columns at Ohira Bay along the way. The hexagonal columns are similar to the Giants Causeway in Ireland but much smaller (so I'm told since I haven't been to Giants Causeway). The funny thing about getting there was that the bay is on private land so we had to get permission, and a key to unlock the gate, to access the farmland the columns are next to. The directions went something like; drive through the gate, turn right at the picnic table, avoid the sheep, over the rise and down to the park bench. We arrived not  long before sunset and had the place to ourselves. The only two tourists at Ohira Bay that evening.

Hotel Chathams, our Honda CRV and Dad

The Basalt Columns at Ohira Bay

The next day we joined a tour group and left the rental car in Waitangi for the morning and headed to the south eastern coast along the Waitangi Tuku Road past beautiful coastline and stunning farmland. On the way back we encountered a New Zealand traffic jam as a farmer herded a flock of sheep along the main road between two paddocks. Back with our own car in the afternoon we followed the tour group to the Ocean Mail Scenic Reserve, the town of Kaingaroa, the seal colony at Port Munning (again only accessible only through private farm land), and the remains of the Sunderland flying boat in an old farm shed (on the same farm).

The loading ramp at Kaingaroa

Dad and I at Port Munning

Crayfish pots - Kaingaroa

We left the tour group late in the afternoon and drove to the south eastern coast in search of the best views of Pitt Island. It was another case of following hilarious directions; turn off the main road at the fish factory, through the gates, follow the fence line, past the cattle, over the ridge to the cliffs of Manukau Point. The cliffs are amazing and the views stunning and once again we were the only people for miles around. It was incredibly serine and the great weather meant we could easily make out Pitt island in the distance of the south coast.

The southern coast of Manukau Point, near Owenga

The last stop of the day was the statue of the Chathams most famous son. Tommy Solomon was the last full-blooded indigenous Chatham Islander, or Moriori. He was however, not the last Moriori. His own descendants and the descendants of other Moriori live on today. He died in 1993 but his statue, erected in 1985, sits on the property of his descendants, on the eastern corner of the island near Owenga, facing eastward and staring out across the Pacific. As with most places we visited during our two days, we were the only two people there, surrounded by Tommy's spirit.

Dad talking to the Tommy Solomon statue

Everyone we met said two days was not enough time and they were right. The trip was far too short but it was brilliant to be somewhere familiar, yet so different all at the same time. As the locals will tell you, this is not New Zealand.

Venezuela

FIRST IMPRESSIONS
I flew from San Andres, Colombia in the early evening bound for Caracas via Panama City. During the last flight I filled out two different landing cards plus the customs declaration but none of the officials at the airport in Caracas looked at them. It was 1am by the time I walked into the arrivals hall where I expected to be mobbed by taxi drivers - but it was almost empty. I had to hunt around for a taxi driver but it didn't take long before I was hurtling towards the city to the beautiful JW Marriott, paid for using points. The taxi ride was memorable for the driver who had me hold the steering wheel at 70mph while he fished around for his wallet and the various stacks money in plastic bags or held together with rubber bands.

The JW Marriott downtown Caracas

THE VENEZUELAN BOLIVAR
The Bolivar is a beautifully colorful currency but outside of the country it's completely worthless. There are very few legal money changers and those that are open offer the official government rate of about 6 Bolivar to the US Dollar. The black market rates are completely arbitrary; of the three transactions I made during the week I was in Venezuela I got 60, 80 and eventually 100 Bolivar to the dollar. The largest note is 100 Bolivar, so changing USD$200, and getting a mixture of notes, creates a huge wad of cash.

The Venezuelan equivalent of $100USD.

Food and drink is generally pretty cheap but the choices aren't that plentiful. A can of local beer at the supermarket was about 30 Bolivar (60 cents) and a really good bottle of rum only around 500 Bolivar (USD5). The choices for consumer goods was very slim, only one type of toothpaste on offer and things like toilet paper and kitchen towels were almost totally sold out. The metro is dirt cheap with return journey costing 3 Bolivar - that's 3c to go as far as you like, and back again. Gasoline is even more surprising; 4 Bolivar for 40 litres, so about 4c to fill up any car and best of all motorcycles fill up for free, so in that respect, gasoline in Venezuela is cheaper than water.

Any kind of toothpaste you like - as long as it's Colgate

ANGEL FALLS
I left the JW Marriott super early for the airport to catch a flight to Canaima, via Ciudad Bolivar in search of Angel Falls - the tallest waterfall in the world. Canaima is a small village next to a tiny airstrip and a hugely impressive lagoon with no fewer than five gorgeous waterfalls surrounding it. Entrance to the National Park costs 635 Bolivars, the equivalent to about USD6, depending on which exchange rate was on offer.

Canaima Lagoon

But before I could get around the lagoon I joined the rest of my tour group and headed upstream in a long boat for four hours to the outlet of Salto Angel (Angel Falls). After another hour or so traversing through the bush we arrived at the first viewing area very near the base of the falls. A little further up is the pool where you can swim and slide down the smooth rocks. It was quite a surreal experience as the combination of the sunset and the spray from the waterfall created a wonderful atmosphere. It was a long day, probably 12 hours of traveling to get to this point, but it was absolutely worth it. The traverse back down to the boats was done in darkness and much more treacherous than expected - most of us used the flashlights on our phones to light the way but even then there were a few accidents along the way.

Our long boat - not bad for an hour but pretty uncomfortable after four.

The pool at the base of Angel Falls

Me at Angel Falls - November 25, 2014

As far as global backpacking goes this was one of the most memorable days for a number of reasons. Firstly, everything went to plan (taxi's, planes, boats, and buses were all on time - which is rare), my tour mates were awesome, I got to see one of the great natural wonders of the world and to top it off we slept in the jungle at a camp beside the river in hammocks. Brilliant.

Angel Falls camp

Angel Falls at sunrise. Sadly, not my photo. I wasn't up at sunrise.

After an early breakfast it was back down the river to Canaima and a visit to each of the waterfalls in the lagoon. It took the best part of the afternoon to get around all of them but we saved the best, Sapo Falls until the end, just before sunset, again, perfect light for photographs, ambiance etc.

Our guide pointing out one of the Tupui's

Canaima lagoon - Hacha Falls

The tour around the lagoon was spoiled somewhat by a large group of middle aged Dutch tourists who were 1) hard to exclude from any photo opportunity and 2) upset because they were promised a 'private' tour of the lagoon with no other tourists when they booked from Holland. There was quite a lot of bickering back and forth between the Dutch tour leader and the local guides, who incidentally were completely blameless for the whole situation, but the tour progressed, albeit under protest from lots of people in socks and sandals.

On the top side of Sapo Falls

Overlooking the lagoon from the top of Sapo

The final day of the tour was spent wandering around the lagoon and soaking up the atmosphere before heading back to the airstrip to retrace my journey back to Caracas, We had an unexpectedly long layover in Ciudad Bolivar so a group of four took a taxi to one of the local shopping areas for lunch and then on to the waterfall at Llovizna park. It was nestled in a sprawling city park but once we managed to find it, I couldn't believe how huge it was - and loud!

The waterfall at Llovizna park

CARACAS IN A COUPLE OF DAYS
Caracas is located in a beautiful valley, overlooked by Mount Avila, an impressive mountain that separates the city from the Caribbean Sea and also blocks the view. There's a staggering sense of inequality with rich neighborhoods, a bustling central business district and the poor neighborhoods, called 'barrios' in the hills to the west of the city. Living conditions are very basic and cramped in the barrios, most people surviving on government assistance, particularly for improvements required to keep the barrios' livable. Chavez garnered much of his popularity by keeping residents here happy with free healthcare, mainly provided by Cuban immigrants, in a deal to provide Castro with cheap oil. Tourists are advised to stay away.

Patare Barrios in western Caracas

A trip to the top of Mount Avila is a must. The Teleferico is a cable car that runs to the top of the mountain where there are lots of food stalls and performers making it a bit of a circus. The views of Caracas on one side and the Caribbean Sea on the other are spectacular. I walked down to the town of Avila and back for lunch and sampled some of the local snacks before heading back to Caracas for a local hot dog from one of the street vendors.

Caracas from the Teleferico

Looking over Avila to the Caribbean Sea

Caracas at sunset from the Teleferico

It's true that Caracas is one of the most dangerous cities in the world but as long as you stay away from the dangerous areas, it's a wonderful place to visit and Venezuela as a whole was a memorable country to experience.

VENEZUELA QUICK GUIDE
Capital: Caracas
Currency: Venezuelan Bolivar (USD1 = 100 VEF)
Language: Spanish
Drives on the Right
Beer of choice: Solera