THE TATTERED PASSPORT: 2014

Sunday, November 30, 2014

Venezuela

FIRST IMPRESSIONS
I flew from San Andres, Colombia in the early evening bound for Caracas via Panama City. During the last flight I filled out two different landing cards plus the customs declaration but none of the officials at the airport in Caracas looked at them. It was 1am by the time I walked into the arrivals hall where I expected to be mobbed by taxi drivers - but it was almost empty. I had to hunt around for a taxi driver but it didn't take long before I was hurtling towards the city to the beautiful JW Marriott, paid for using points. The taxi ride was memorable for the driver who had me hold the steering wheel at 70mph while he fished around for his wallet and the various stacks money in plastic bags or held together with rubber bands.

The JW Marriott downtown Caracas

THE VENEZUELAN BOLIVAR
The Bolivar is a beautifully colorful currency but outside of the country it's completely worthless. There are very few legal money changers and those that are open offer the official government rate of about 6 Bolivar to the US Dollar. The black market rates are completely arbitrary; of the three transactions I made during the week I was in Venezuela I got 60, 80 and eventually 100 Bolivar to the dollar. The largest note is 100 Bolivar, so changing USD$200, and getting a mixture of notes, creates a huge wad of cash.

The Venezuelan equivalent of $100USD.

Food and drink is generally pretty cheap but the choices aren't that plentiful. A can of local beer at the supermarket was about 30 Bolivar (60 cents) and a really good bottle of rum only around 500 Bolivar (USD5). The choices for consumer goods was very slim, only one type of toothpaste on offer and things like toilet paper and kitchen towels were almost totally sold out. The metro is dirt cheap with return journey costing 3 Bolivar - that's 3c to go as far as you like, and back again. Gasoline is even more surprising; 4 Bolivar for 40 litres, so about 4c to fill up any car and best of all motorcycles fill up for free, so in that respect, gasoline in Venezuela is cheaper than water.

Any kind of toothpaste you like - as long as it's Colgate

ANGEL FALLS
I left the JW Marriott super early for the airport to catch a flight to Canaima, via Ciudad Bolivar in search of Angel Falls - the tallest waterfall in the world. Canaima is a small village next to a tiny airstrip and a hugely impressive lagoon with no fewer than five gorgeous waterfalls surrounding it. Entrance to the National Park costs 635 Bolivars, the equivalent to about USD6, depending on which exchange rate was on offer.

Canaima Lagoon

But before I could get around the lagoon I joined the rest of my tour group and headed upstream in a long boat for four hours to the outlet of Salto Angel (Angel Falls). After another hour or so traversing through the bush we arrived at the first viewing area very near the base of the falls. A little further up is the pool where you can swim and slide down the smooth rocks. It was quite a surreal experience as the combination of the sunset and the spray from the waterfall created a wonderful atmosphere. It was a long day, probably 12 hours of traveling to get to this point, but it was absolutely worth it. The traverse back down to the boats was done in darkness and much more treacherous than expected - most of us used the flashlights on our phones to light the way but even then there were a few accidents along the way.

Our long boat - not bad for an hour but pretty uncomfortable after four.

The pool at the base of Angel Falls

Me at Angel Falls - November 25, 2014

As far as global backpacking goes this was one of the most memorable days for a number of reasons. Firstly, everything went to plan (taxi's, planes, boats, and buses were all on time - which is rare), my tour mates were awesome, I got to see one of the great natural wonders of the world and to top it off we slept in the jungle at a camp beside the river in hammocks. Brilliant.

Angel Falls camp

Angel Falls at sunrise. Sadly, not my photo. I wasn't up at sunrise.

After an early breakfast it was back down the river to Canaima and a visit to each of the waterfalls in the lagoon. It took the best part of the afternoon to get around all of them but we saved the best, Sapo Falls until the end, just before sunset, again, perfect light for photographs, ambiance etc.

Our guide pointing out one of the Tupui's

Canaima lagoon - Hacha Falls

The tour around the lagoon was spoiled somewhat by a large group of middle aged Dutch tourists who were 1) hard to exclude from any photo opportunity and 2) upset because they were promised a 'private' tour of the lagoon with no other tourists when they booked from Holland. There was quite a lot of bickering back and forth between the Dutch tour leader and the local guides, who incidentally were completely blameless for the whole situation, but the tour progressed, albeit under protest from lots of people in socks and sandals.

On the top side of Sapo Falls

Overlooking the lagoon from the top of Sapo

The final day of the tour was spent wandering around the lagoon and soaking up the atmosphere before heading back to the airstrip to retrace my journey back to Caracas, We had an unexpectedly long layover in Ciudad Bolivar so a group of four took a taxi to one of the local shopping areas for lunch and then on to the waterfall at Llovizna park. It was nestled in a sprawling city park but once we managed to find it, I couldn't believe how huge it was - and loud!

The waterfall at Llovizna park

CARACAS IN A COUPLE OF DAYS
Caracas is located in a beautiful valley, overlooked by Mount Avila, an impressive mountain that separates the city from the Caribbean Sea and also blocks the view. There's a staggering sense of inequality with rich neighborhoods, a bustling central business district and the poor neighborhoods, called 'barrios' in the hills to the west of the city. Living conditions are very basic and cramped in the barrios, most people surviving on government assistance, particularly for improvements required to keep the barrios' livable. Chavez garnered much of his popularity by keeping residents here happy with free healthcare, mainly provided by Cuban immigrants, in a deal to provide Castro with cheap oil. Tourists are advised to stay away.

Patare Barrios in western Caracas

A trip to the top of Mount Avila is a must. The Teleferico is a cable car that runs to the top of the mountain where there are lots of food stalls and performers making it a bit of a circus. The views of Caracas on one side and the Caribbean Sea on the other are spectacular. I walked down to the town of Avila and back for lunch and sampled some of the local snacks before heading back to Caracas for a local hot dog from one of the street vendors.

Caracas from the Teleferico

Looking over Avila to the Caribbean Sea

Caracas at sunset from the Teleferico

It's true that Caracas is one of the most dangerous cities in the world but as long as you stay away from the dangerous areas, it's a wonderful place to visit and Venezuela as a whole was a memorable country to experience.

VENEZUELA QUICK GUIDE
Capital: Caracas
Currency: Venezuelan Bolivar (USD1 = 100 VEF)
Language: Spanish
Drives on the Right
Beer of choice: Solera

Saturday, November 22, 2014

Bogota, Colombia

COLOMBIAN PROVERB: There is no better friend than a burden.

Colombia was the first stop on a brief trip around two of the more intriguing countries in South America, with Venezuela next on the list. I flew to Bogota's El Dorado airport from DFW via Miami. I was impressed with the airport and the super quick baggage delivery - virtually no waiting. I had booked a couple of nights at the Bogota Marriott using points and there was a free shuttle from the airport which barely took 15 minutes to deliver me to the lobby. The Bogota Marriott is an awesome hotel and typically room prices start at around $300 per night but for 20,000 Marriott points this place is an absolute bargain. I was upgraded to a huge suite and the executive lounge on the top floor has fantastic food and a wide selection of beer and wine. I wished I had booked more than two nights.

Colombia - country #110 for me

NUMBER 110

With little time to waste in Colombia I had prearranged a private tour for the day with Hansa Tours and their excellent guide, Daniel Pedraza, a Bogota native and one time Miami area Domino's pizza delivery guy. Daniel met me in the lobby of the hotel and after a quick exchange of pleasantries we headed north out of the town of Gautavita (elevation 3,000), where the nearby lake is home to the legend of El Dorado. The indigenous Muisca Indians held religious ceremonies in the middle of the lake, their bodies covered in gold dust, while gold offerings were dropped as sacrifices into the lake. The walk up to the lake was littered with school children on a field trip and the odd tourist but it was very relaxing and good exercise too.

Gautavita - the legend of El Dorado

For lunch we drove to the town of Zipaquira for a delicious bowl of Ajaico - a traditional thick soup made with potatoes, chicken, avocado, corn and cream. We also tried a selection from the barbecue including pork, lamb, blood sausage, chorizo accompanied by arepas, which are corn based pancakes that you can stuff with your favorite filling. The rain poured down as we ate but just as we were about to leave the clouds pealed back and it was sunny again - but we were about to head underground.

Next door is the impressive underground cathedral carved out of a salt mine. At the entrance of the church are 14 small chapels, representing the stations of the cross, which illustrate the events of Jesus' last journey. Each station has a cross and several kneeling platforms carved into the halite structure. There are no images of Jesus but the symbolism of each different cross represents his struggle. The enormous main temple has three naves each connected by a thin crack in the salt walls. Thankfully there were very few other tourists there and at times it seemed as if we had the whole place to ourselves.

One of the stations of the cross chapels

The main cathedral at Zipaquira

I can't say enough about the quality of the tour and especially Daniel who was more than just a tour guide - he served as driver, translator, and bodyguard. For anyone with little time to spare, I highly recommend Hansa tours.

BACK TO THE CARIBBEAN (Colombian style)
The following morning I had an early flight to San Andres, a small island in the Caribbean Sea and an overseas Department of Colombia - technically another destination on the Travelers Century Club list. The island is really small and the airport is even smaller. The ocean flanks both ends of the runway so there's not much room for error. The hotel of choice was the Hotel Sunrise Beach, perfectly placed on the south eastern shore overlooking a private beach and well priced for $120 a night including breakfast. The island is a little bit dated but the beaches were first rate, the food was excellent and Aguila beer was about US$1.50 a bottle. Most of the tourists were either from Colombia or Central America and around every corner there seem to be music playing and over-sized golf carts doubling as taxi's or rental cars.

My view from the Hotel Sunrise Beach

The main beach at San Andres - near the airport

San Andres was a nice change after the big city of Bogota but before long it was time to move on to another big city, this time Caracas, and another new country. Based on what I had read and heard there was a fair amount of trepidation heading to Venezuela but the next week would change everything.

COLOMBIA QUICK GUIDE

Capital: Bogota

Currency: Colombian Peso (USD1 = 2,100 COP

Language: Spanish

Drives on the Right

Beer of choice: BBC (Bogota Brewing Company)

Wednesday, September 3, 2014

Bermuda

THE PLACE THAT PUT THE TRIANGLE ON THE MAP
Bermuda, also known as the Somers Isles, is a British Overseas Territory in the North Atlantic Ocean, about 1,000km west-northwest of North Carolina. It marks the northernmost point of the famed Bermuda Triangle, where a number of aircraft and ships have disappeared under mysterious circumstances. Whether caused by mechanical failure, mother nature, paranormal activity or extra terrestrial beings, many of the disappearances appear to have been exaggerated or inaccurately reported to support the romantic notion of the mysterious triangle. Research librarian Larry Kusche claimed in his book The Bermuda Triangle Mystery: Solved (1975) that the legend of the triangle is a manufactured mystery, perpetuated by writers who either purposely or unknowingly made use of misconceptions, faulty reasoning, and sensationalism - like when McCain chose Palin as a running mate in 2006. But I digress.

A BRIEF HISTORY
Bermuda was uninhabited when Juan de Bermúdez claimed it for the Spanish in 1503. He never actually landed on the islands because of the dangerous reef surrounding them but it became a popular stopping point for Portuguese and Spanish ships for the next hundred years. The British, led by Sir George Somers in 1612, were the first to send settlers to the islands and before long it was claimed permanently by the British and linked to Jamestown, Virginia. During the War of Independence Bermuda may well have been among the original colonies to join the rebellion but it's distance from the American east coast and the strong Royal Nay presence counted against it. Some Bermudan aided the rebels by providing ships, gunpowder and salt but after that proved an unsustainable economic model, many turned to pirating. When Newfoundland became part of Canada in 1949, Bermuda became the oldest surviving British colony, and when Hong Kong was returned to China, it became the most populous as well. Today the finance and tourism industries dominate the economy and English traditions dominate the culture with fine pubs and courteous drivers on the left hand side of the road. US dollars are interchangeable with the Bermudan dollar and 1:1 (just like the Bahamas) but it's an expensive place to visit. Hotel rooms generally start in the $250/night range (excluding taxes) and an evening meal and drinks is easily $100 for a couple. For both Sara and I, the highlight was the excellent 'Dark & Stormy' cocktail - Ginger Beer and Goslings Black Seal Dark Rum.

A Dark & Stormy

IN AND AROUND HAMILTON
Bermuda's sleepy capital, Hamilton, is home to banks and reinsurance companies and filled with men in shorts, knee high socks and sandals. Our home for four nights was the delightful Edgehill Manor on the hill overlooking the city of Hamilton and the harbor. Edgehill is an old sprawling mansion, converted into guestrooms, overlooking the suburbs around the city center and a short walk to the city center and a host of dining options.

Edgehill Manor

We spent one day exploring the city of Hamilton on foot, wandering up and down the narrow streets and scoping out places to eat. We stopped in at a few banks to try to pick up some local currency but they were all extremely busy. It appeared that much of the population of Hamilton was either on their way to a bank, or just coming out of one presumably on their way to the next. I finally found an HSBC teller who was sympathetic to my plea for a selection of crisp new bank notes for my money collection. We ate at the Pickled Onion restaurant overlooking Hamilton Harbour and took advantage of the location to do some people watching.

Hamilton Harbour

Anglican Cathedral

The following day we caught the ferry to Ireland Island and the Dockyard where the cruise ships make their home. It's a wonderful place to wander around with a nice craft market, national museum and dock buildings. Near the dock is a wonderful English pub called the Frog and Onion pub, where we ate lunch, watched some of the opening day of the English Premiership Football season and shared a huge 50oz locally brewed beer. The ferry ride from Hamilton takes about 20 minutes and costs US$9 return.

The Bermuda Dockyards

Scooters are a great way to get around the island because there isn't a lot of traffic on the roads and the speed limit is technically 20mph everywhere. All of the scooter rental outfits insist that tourists wear white helmets to differentiate them from locals but the fact that I never went over the speed limit was probably a give-away for anyone that saw, or got stuck behind us. During the day we ventured back towards the airport to the excellent Crystal & Fantasy caves, lunch at the Swizzle Inn and some sightseeing in and around the historic town on St George's. The claim to fame of St George's, apart from being the former capital of Bermuda, is that it's believed to be the first and oldest continuously inhabited English town in the New World, settled back in 1612. It's a UNESCO World Heritage site boasting wonderful old buildings and churches including St Peter's and the eerie Unfinished church.

Scooter safety starts with white tourist helmets

Crystal & Fantasy Caves

St Peter's Church, in St George's Bermuda

Our stay was all too brief but after four days of sightseeing and drinking dark and stormy's (ginger ale and dark rum) it was time to fly back to Dallas, via Charlotte. It rained every day that we were in Bermuda but never for longer than 30 minutes before the clouds rolled away and the sun returned. The sub tropical climate meant the humidity was very noticeable, almost uncomfortable, but the sea breezes were refreshing.

The next trip..... a return to South America.

Saturday, July 5, 2014

Progress toward world domination

WORLD MAP
Every once and a while I like to update my world map to show progress towards the ultimate aim of visiting every country. Here's the latest world map from the iVisited application with the countries I've been to highlighted.

Updated August 2014: 89 U.N. Countries, 109 total destinations

Friday, June 6, 2014

Recap Caribbean & Africa 2014

Now safely back in the USA it's time to reflect on the last three months of travel and try to reduce it to something of a manageable and entertaining summary. It was difficult to follow because I doubled back on myself a little bit but the sequence of locations goes something like this: Southern Caribbean - Portugal - North & West Africa - France & England - Northern Caribbean.

A FEW STATS

Flights: 32 (including 22 with my five year old boy Sebastian)
UN countries visited: 20 (Grenada, St Vincent & the Grenadines, St Lucia, Antigua, St Kitts & Nevis, Portugal, Morocco, Cape Verde, Senegal, The Gambia, Guinea-Bissau, Guinea, Sierra Leone, Belgium, France, Luxembourg, England, Dominican Republic, Haiti & the Bahamas)
Additional Territories or Collectivities visited: 5 (Guadeloupe, Montserrat, Sint Maarten, St Martin, Turks & Caicos)
Visas required: 5 (Cape Verde, Senegal, Guinea-Bissau, Guinea, Sierra Leone)
Rented cars in 11 different countries, caught 9 boats, 49 taxis, 5 motorcycle taxis and a couple of pirogues.
Crossed 10 land borders including the Channel Tunnel.
Stayed at 25 different hotels

My CrossFit Bartlesville T-Shirt went with me everywhere. Between my son Sebastian, my brother Glen, wife Sara and a few random strangers I managed to get photos of me wearing the same shirt in all the places I visited.